Things that STILL surprise me...

Believe it or not, we have already been here 4 months. Time flies when your having fun. And although I have gotten used to many things here, I still have days that surprise me. I'll share some examples (and these all took place just this week). First of all, I went to an Indiana University alumni meeting the other night and I decided to brave the subway by myself. Things started off just fine- I bought my ticket, got a seat, and settled in for the 20 minute ride. About two stops later, the train started to get pretty full- it was rush hour so this is to be expected. At the third stop the doors opened and several people literally sprinted onto the train and started elbowing each other out of the way as they rushed for the last remaining seat. The victorious passenger claimed his seat with a smirk while I stared in disbelief. I had just witnessed the adult version of musical chairs- I felt like I was watching a group of second graders. By the time we got to my stop and I stood up to try to push my way to the door, I could barely breathe because were so many people crushed against me. I now understand how people can get trampled in a crowd because had I fallen down, there was no way I would have been able to stand up again.
Ok, enough about the subway. Shock number two came this week when I went in for an appointment with my TCM (traditional chinese medicine) doctor for my back -I have a new doc now who is much better but that's another story. My appointment was at 1:30 and I arrived about 1:15pm. I knew I had to pay before the appointment but when I attempted to hand over my money at the registration desk, the nurse told me I was not allowed to pay because it was too early. I patiently tried to explain that yes, I knew my appointment was at 1:30 but I would like to pay now and wait until 1:30 to see the doctor. "No, it is too early- you must wait until 1:30 to pay". Four months ago I would have pitched a fit but now I know better. I threw my hands up in the air and sat down to wait. At exactly 1:30 the nurse came over to me and told me that I could now pay. Great. And of course as I stood at the cashier's desk to pay, at least 3 people tried to cut in front of me. Argh! I'll never get used to that cultural difference here.
And speaking of cultural differences I still cannot get over the spitting thing. I've mentioned it before in a previous post but it never ceases to amaze me. I was at the grocery store today and while I was checking out another customer walked past me and spat on the floor. In the grocery store. I proceeded to give him my patented "death look" to which he simply responded to by smiling back at me and nodding his head. He had no idea why I had given him the evil eye. That's when I had my "A-Ha" moment- China may be modernizing at the speed of light but some things will never change- like spitting. Oh well! If you can't beat 'em...well, you know the rest.

Beijing

To tell you the truth, before this opportunity came up for us I really never had a burning desire to see China. But now that we are here, I want to see as much as possible and first on the agenda was Beijing. We went for a long weekend since the flight is only 2 hours from Shanghai. Although we didn't get to see as much as we wanted with the kids in tow, it was still a great trip and we were in awe of the sights. They are working hard to get everything cleaned up for the Olympics but they have a long way to go. For example, we landed at the airport and instead of getting a jetway, we had to board a bus to get to the terminal. Fine. But it was cold outside and we were at the back of the plane so by the time we got off the one bus they had waiting was packed to the gills. I mean it was like a clown car- you literally could not squeeze one more person on there and there was no way we were going to try it with the kids. As the bus pulled away, I asked the flight attendant how long before the next bus would be there - 10 minutes. This may not seem like a long time to wait but standing on a runway in 40 degree weather with a strong wind and two little kids will make it seem like an eternity. The classic part of the whole situation is that there was another bus sitting right there with a driver in it but they wouldn't let us on- not even to wait out of the cold. Typical. I was just picturing the plane loads of people from all over the world landing there for the Olympics and standing outside in 100 degree heat waiting for buses. Yet another reason we have decided we don't want to be anywhere near Beijing next summer.

Anyway, overall it was a fun trip- it seems a little crazy that we can hop on a plane for a weekend trip and walk the Great Wall of China! Enjoy the pictures.

Sev at the Temple of Heaven.

Inside the Forbidden City (home of China's Emporers).

The Great Wall- we got there early so for a change, there were very few tourists.

Sev and Grace in front of the entrance to the Forbidden City and a lovely portrait of Mao.

Hooters vs. Bubbas (a.k.a. Hooters part 2)

I had such an overwhelming response on the last Hooters blog I thought I would just add a few last comments. Based on the many email requests I got for photos (granted, most of the requests were from the same person- you know who you are) I am also adding not only photos but a video! Yahoo!

I also had to mention a place we found last week called "Bubba's Texas Style BBQ". Based on previous experiences with Western food in Shanghai, I was a bit nervous to try it. Especially based on the outside appearance- it's a little scary. But once inside, we were magically transported to a little dive bar reminiscent to those visited in our youth. Big 10 football flags decorated the walls along with old Texas license plates and some good old country music. But the best part was the FOOD. It was seriously one of the best BBQ's I've ever had (as evidenced by the 4 pounds of meat we ate among 5 people- and one of the five is a vegetarian)!

Ribs that melt in your mouth, a pile of pulled pork worth writing home about (umm, I guess I am writing home about it), and of course some great micro brew beers imported straight from the US. We were in heaven- check out the photos and believe me, this place will be on the agenda if any of you actually get yourselves over here for a visit!

Now the question is- which is better, Bubba's or Hooters??? I guess we'll just have to keep going back to both until we decide.

Grace and her favorite waitess at Hooters (that's Sev's beer in the pic, not Grace's).

Audrey peruses the menu- will it be the spicy chicken or the wings?

Bubba's exterior

Our friends about to dig into the meat feast.

Four pounds of meat later- we were all paying for it the next day!

My top 10 list

Today I was feeling a little homesick so I decided to make my top 10 list of the things I miss about living in the USA. Of course my family and friends are the thing I miss the most but this list focuses on the things that may surprise you.
#10- Shopping. I was never a huge shopper but now that it is such a pain in the neck to do any kind of shopping (grocery included) I find that I really miss it! My number one complaint is that nothing here is made to fit western sizes so doing any type of clothes shopping for anyone over a size 4 is virtually impossible. Sev just keeps reminding me of all the money I'm saving by not being able to buy new clothes...
#9- Voicemail. I have no idea why but there is no voicemail here for cell phones and most home/office phones. This leads to people calling and letting the phone ring incessantly in the hopes that someone will pick up.
#8- Hollywood. Both movies and gossip. Ok, so it was a guilty pleasure to follow along with the Brittany Spears saga but to say that I am now out of the loop is an understatement.
#7- Noise restrictions. There is a bar across the street from us where they like to set off fireworks (the kind so big they'd be illegal in every state in the US) pretty often and usually after 9pm. I'd love to call someone and complain but let's face it- I can't since I don't speak Chinese and I've lived here long enough to know if won't do any good anyway.
#6- Non-smoking restaurants. Self explanatory.
#5- Road rules. As in there are none here. This morning traffic was backed up as usual and several cars took it upon themselves to cross the double yellow line into oncoming traffic and make themselves a new lane which of course only served to back up traffic in the opposite direction as well. Have I mentioned how much I hate the traffic here???
#4- Toilet paper in public bathrooms. Sure, you'll come across a bathroom that has run out in the the US but here, it's a pleasant surprise if you can find T.P. in the bathroom. Not only that but the plumbing sucks so most places provide a garbage pail in every stall for your used T.P. so that it doesn't clog the toilet. You can imagine the smell in the summer heat- yum.
#3- Good pizza. There is Pizza Hut and Papa John's here but they have "China-fied" it. That is, tailored the taste to suit the masses here and it is not so good (i.e. tuna fish is a popular topping here). We've yet to find a really good pizza although it has now become a personal quest of mine.
#2- TIVO! And along with it, all the great shows that I am missing like Heroes, The Office, Ugly Betty, and Grey's Anatomy. Not to mention Sunday football- GO PACK GO!!! Figures that the Packers are having one of their best seasons ever and we can't watch a single game. ARGH.
#1- Fresh Air. What I wouldn't give for a good long whiff of Minnesota air. Yeah the pollution here is not as bad as I thought it would be (sometimes, we can actually see the moon and stars) but it sure isn't good.

Well, there's my list in a nutshell. And just for fun, I thought I would try a new feature of adding a video. Please email me and let me know if it works. It has nothing to do with my top 10 list but I know everyone will get a kick out it.
Found this for sale at a recent trip to the market. Yes, it's meant to be eaten...

I just got cupped

I am trying to live by a new philosophy :"When in China, do like the Chinese". But sometimes I do something and afterwards I think it probably wasn't such a good idea. I'll give you an example. Last week my back was really bothering me. It was so bad that if I bent the wrong way I would literally cry out in pain. One of my Chinese friends, Jason, swears by this traditional Chinese medicine doctor so upon hearing of my predicament, he talked me into going with him to see her. He warned me that she is currently living with her elderly father so their place isn't so nice and she is retired so she works out of her dad's apartment. Ok, I thought- what a great opportunity to see how the locals really live.

Most people would have turned and ran at the doorway. We entered in through a rusty old gate and then went up two flights of narrow concrete slab stairs. Upon entering the apartment we found ourselves standing in a very small kitchen. The lone bathroom was adjacent to the kitchen. To the right was a small bedroom (maybe 8ft x 8ft) which was also doubling as the "treatment room". To the left was a second bedroom- maybe 9ft X9 ft. The walls were in dire need of paint, there was no washing machine (I am assuming they did their laundry by hand which is pretty common here), and I imagine the place got quite a draft in the winter.
A man was standing outside the apartment shouting something over and over in Chinese which Jason translated as "Who has knives and scissors they need to have sharpened?" Damn, I had left my scissors at home.
Anyway, on to the appointment. We gave the doctor no prior information about my condition before the appointment. The doctor looked at my tongue and then felt my pulse. She proceed to correctly diagnose that I had both lower back pain and neck pain, that I got headaches and once in a while I got dizzy when I stood up. Spot on. Freaky. She said I had back pain because I didn't rest for one month after I had my kids (the Chinese believe that you should basically lay in bed and eat for one month after you have a kid). True, true. She said she would do both acupuncture and "cupping".
There are two types of cupping- one involves being bled and one does not. I said under no uncertain circumstances was I doing anything that involved bleeding since she doesn't wear gloves and even an untrained eye could see that it wasn't the most sanitary place. Fine, she said but it wouldn't work as well. I'll take my chances I said. I laid down and she did a very intense massage on my back which was pretty painful but bearable. Then she did the acupuncture. I have had acupuncture a few times in the US and it never hurt. This time however, was another story. (Note that the needles were new and out of a package so no worries for all you fellow germ freaks out there). She put the needles right into my lower back and I think she must have hit my sciatic nerve because a wicked pain shot down my leg all the way to my toes. She claimed that was a good thing and it meant my body was releasing the back pain. Whatever. Then she proceeded to cup me. This entailed placing glass cups (kind of looked like a beaker from science class) all over my back and then sucking my skin up into the cup. It didn't hurt but the effect is like getting a giant hickey.


She charged me $30 for an hour and a half of treatment- pretty cheap. At the end of the day, my back did start to feel better the next day but it may have cleared up on its own anyway. We'll never know. Would I go back there? Probably not but it was definitely an experience to remember.




A hickey explosion on my back after traditional Chinese medicine treatment.

Halloween- Chinese style.

Halloween is a purely American holiday as far as I can tell. Nobody else celebrates it the way we do. I had resigned myself to skipping the festivities this year, figuring the kids were too young to know the difference anyway. But one day I noticed a flyer had been posted by our apartment management that there would be a Halloween celebration on Tuesday, October 30th. Why not actually on Halloween day you may ask? I don't know but you take what you can get around here.

First, I had to sign up to hand out candy since most Chinese don't get it and don't want a bunch of kids ringing their doorbell. I was given a sticker to put on our mailbox to indicate that we were participating. So far, so good. I bought my candy (the good stuff- bite sized snickers) and Sev manned the door while I took the kids to the festival. It started out with a great puppet show which was really good but over an hour long. Imagine telling a bunch of kids that they get to go around collecting candy but not until after the HOUR long puppet show. The plan was to break the kids up into groups of 10 so that they could be accompanied around by someone from the apartment management (since our key cards only work at our own buildings there is no way to get into the other towers). But in typical Chinese fashion, they didn't split up the kids prior to the event and everyone wanted to be in the first group so it basically ended up being a totally unorganized roving gang of hundreds of kids. Imagine trying to cram all these kids and parents on the elevators to get them up to the participating apartments- not good. Not to mention that nobody had any idea how many kids to expect and so most people ran out of candy shortly after the event started.

Since this was the first time many Chinese parents and kids had done Halloween, they didn't really get the full concept. For example, many of the kids came without a bag to put their candy in. And they didn't know how to say "trick or treat" so they would just ring the bell and stick out their hand. It was pretty funny. It was also the first time many of the Chinese residents had handed out candy. Remember when you would go trick or treating and the old people would give out the gross stuff that was always the last thing left at the bottom of your bag after you ate all the good stuff? Well, that was pretty much what everyone was giving out here (i.e. coffee flavored hard candy). Thank goodness Grace was satisfied just hitting 3 apartments and Audrey had signed out half way through the puppet show.

Perhaps next year (if we are still here) I will volunteer to organize the event and give them a taste of what an American Halloween should really look like- but then again, maybe I'll just sit back and let the events unfold in typical Chinese fashion- it certainly makes for a more entertaining experience!

MMM- Shrimp flavored candy. One of the many treats Grace got from her Chinese neighbors.

We dressed the kids as the month of March- in like a lion and out like a lamb.

Grace and her friend Sara from Italy.

Our little lamb (thanks to my mom for making this costume for Grace a couple years ago!).